Desa Mas – How the Village Get Its Name

Brahmanical Woodcarving Village

The village of Mas lies on the main road, 20 km to the north of Denpasar and 6 km before Ubud. It is located 2 km north of Sukawati Craft Market before Peliatan Village. Today the village appears as a succession of palatial art shops, as Mas has developed into a flourishing center for the woodcarving craft.

Mas actually played an important role in Balinese history during the 16th century, as it was the place where a great priest from Java, Dang Hyang Nirartha (also called Dwijendra), had his hermitage (griya)

Desa Mas - the abode of Brahmana Mas, descendant of Dang Hyang Nirartha

Dang Hyang Nirartha is a son of Dang Hyang Semaranatha, holy priest of Majapahit kondom. Due to destruction of Majapahit kingdom and the invasion of Islamic influence in Java. Dang Hyang Nirartha move to Pasuruan. Subsequently he travelled to Blambangan and received protection from King of Blambangan Sri Aji Juru. Due to religious dispute he move to Bali with nine of his children.

In Bali, he is known as Pedanda Sakti Wau Rauh (literally: "The Newly Arrived High Priest") . He was Saivite religious figure, a well know architect and expert in medicine, carving and literature. He came to Bali in 1489 to become the chief counselor to Gelgel King Batu Renggong. He was invited to Mas by prince Mas Wilis (Tan Kober). Here the pedanda acquired great fame through his teaching, and gathered many disciples. Subsequently he was married to Prince Mas' sister Sang Ayu Mas Gemitir. Through this marriage he has four son : Pedanda Timbul, Pedanda Alangkajeng, Pedanda Panarukan and Pedanda Singaran. Later he also took the maid of Mas Prince, from this marriage he has a son, IDa Patapan. All his childrens from five wife stayed and studied in Desa Mas where there is a lot of Pule tree. Subsequently this area known as Pura Taman Pule.

His literature achievement - he wrote a lot of Lontar. Some of his literature masterpiece are : Nusa Bali, Kidung Sebamengkang, Cara Kusuma, Ampik, Langerang, Mahisa Langit, Bewer, Mayadesawantaka Dharma Pitutur, Wacistacrya, Karya dharma putra, Dharma sunya Eling nand many more.

In his old age, Dang Hyang Nirartha did Dharma Yatra - or Holy Roadshow to various place in Bali and also Lombok. In every temple he visited, not only he preached, he also restore, renovated and build temple by combining Balinese Architecture with Javanese Hindu Architecture. He restored 19 Temple including the famous Pura Tanah Lot in Tabanan, Pura Taman Pule in Mas

The family of Ida Bagus Njana and his son Ida Bagus Tilem are descendants of this famous priest. (Ida Bagus is a name for Bhramana caste). There is a legend when the priest stuck his wooden stick in the ground of the village, a miracle happened. The stick became alive and became a living tree with golden flowers, from which the village of Mas derives its name (In Indonesia Mas means Gold). The priest also predicted that all his descendant will live from wood. True enough, the village now is the famous village for woodcarving.

Most of Mas Brahmana in the olden days has a profession as Architect, Farming and Priest.

The priest's fame reached the court of Dalem Baturenggong in Gelgel, who, impressed by Danghyang Nirartha's superior wisdom, appointed him the King's counselor and court priest.Based upon his instructions, many temples were built, especially after his moksa (holy death). His belongings - bajra (holy bell), black shirt, mattress and staff - are now kept in the Mas griya, and the Pura Taman Pule temple was built on the site of the priest's griya.


Realm of the Blessed Craftsmen
The gods are also said to have bestowed talents on two of Mas houses: the skill of the shadow puppet master to Griya Dauh, and the skill of woodcarving to Griya Danginan. Ida Bagus Njana is belong to Griya Danginan. At first, the woodcarvers (sangging) were all brahmanas who worked only on ritual or courtly projects. Their disciples (sisya) learned the craft from them, and woodcarving skills were transmitted from father to son. The traditional wayang style prevailed, featuring religious scenes and characters from Ramayana and Mahabharata epics.
In Pura Taman Pule, we can still observe the stone sculpture and temple ornaments design by anchestor of Ida Bagus Njana and the work of Njana himself.

During the 1930s, under the influence of Walter Spies and Pita Maha, a new style of woodcarving developed here. The motifs were more realistic, and inspired by everyday scenes featuring humans and animals. Several of these early works may now be seen in Ubud's Puri Lukisan museum.
During this period, woodcarvings began to be appreciated and purchased by foreigners, but only after 1970 did the real boom take place.

The first art shops in Mas were those of Ketut Roja (Siadja & Son), followed by Ida Bagus Nyana and his son Ida Bagus Tilem, and Ida Bagus Taman (Adil Artshop). At first they all produced works of quality in limited quantities, mainly working with locally available woods. A more abstract style was later developed by Purna and Nyana, featuring elongated, curved lines and woods such as ebony and sandalwood. Later oil, in Pujung and Tegallalang, Cokot began to carve roots into demonic figures.

Woodcarving shops
Dozens of woodcarving shops now line the main road. The most famous and the best gallery is Njana Tilem Gallery - this is the best place to see the balinese woodcarving. Normally guides don't like to take people here because they do not normally pay commision. You must see the collection room of Ida Bagus Njana and Ida Bagus Tilem - it is truly a museum piece quality.

Ida Bagus Tilem's daughter Ida Ayu Raka run her own gallery - Araka. Ida Ayu Raka's taste is really exquisite and some of her piece is really unique one-of-a-kind woodcarving.

The other gallery worth mentioning is Baris Gallery. The location is south of Njana Tilem Gallery. The Gallery is very humble yet it has the largest collection of Wayan Darlun's collection. I Wayan Darlun is recognized as the best student of Ida Bagus Tilem.

Bidadari Art Gallery also has several pieces of woodcarving of Tilem's student such as Wayan Darlun, Made Rema, Wayan Mudana.

Tantra Gallery is owned by the brother of Ida Bagus Tilem. However the collection is pale in comparison with Njana Tilem's Gallery. Ketut Puja is another Tilem's student which own gallery, his gallery is near to Baris Gallery. However Ketut Puja seem focus more on selling the sculpture rather than concentrating in producing the piece himself. The setting is quite similar to Njana Tilem's Gallery. The price also quite similar, however the quality is one-par lower compared to Njana Tilem's Gallery.

One of the shop which must be visited for Woodcarving fanatic is Casa Luna in Ubud (Opposite of Museum Puri Lukisan), Casa Luna also possess quite large collection of Wayan Darlun. The price is relatively expensive however the piece is really good.

PURA TAMAN PULE

Located 100 in from the road on the east side, Pura Taman Pule does not take its name from the holy pule trees growing behind it, but means "Beautiful Garden";
Danghyang Nirartha is said to have planted a purple flowered tangi tree in it still growing behind an altar in the jaba tengah (middle court) from which a golden bud sprouted, which gave the village its name. At the back of the main temple, a padmasana surrounded by a pond is said to have been the place of his hermitage. People from all over Bali come to pray there, not only brahmanas, but also commoners of the Pasek Bendesa Mas clan, especially on its five-day odalan, falling on Kuningan Day